Naryn (22-24.07.2013)

DSCN7853 cpy Cover photo 2013-07-22 10.10.06 Naryn is at least three mountain ranges south of Bishkek and the best way to get there is via helicopter 2013-07-22 11.14.53 This first thing we discovered was the excavations for the new campus had revealed many burial sites dating back thousands of years 2013-07-22 11.15.24 It was clear on the ground that these sites were numerous
2013-07-22 11.16.37 An archaelogist was hired to excavate the sites 2013-07-22 11.05.21 some of which still had human remains, which had however been looted already long ago DSCN0001 We adjourned to a nearby hill top for picnic lunch and a panoramic view DSCN0002 Panorama 2
DSCN0003 Panorama 3 DSCN0004 Panorama 4 DSCN0005 Panorama 5 DSCN0006 Panorama 6
DSCN0007 Panorama 7 DSCN0008 Panorama 8: looking E up the Naryn River, over the arch site, with the "red" mountain on the left DSCN0009 Panorama 9: and the "blue" mountain on the right, two utterly different compositions DSCN0010 Panorama 10
DSCN7743 Winding road up toward the "blue" mountain DSCN7744 Looking down from our perch on the hilltop DSCN7745 Looking W down river to the irrigated river valley DSCN7748 Picnic 1
DSCN7746 Picnic 2 DSCN7747 Good coverage here! DSCN7749 Our ride awaits us DSCN7750 We visited the Naryn office of the hydro-met service
DSCN7751 which is located just below the red mountain DSCN7753 Discussing the measurements that they make DSCN7754 During what past decade would the technology portrayed here (punch tape?) have been considered modern? ( I remember using it in the early 1970's) DSCN7755 The salon at the UCA guest house!
DSCN7757 I loved the rugs- made in Turkey and very well done! DSCN7758 You could tell that India wasn't that far away DSCN7762 Irrigated farmland: the Soviets invested heavily here I would guess DSCN7763 I saw this and thought "Nevada, 1935"
DSCN7764 We were here to observe a meeting with villagers about impacts from climate change DSCN7766 Local transit DSCN7767 and what become iconic for me: a two-part power pole, held together by thick steel wire cinched tight by twisting with a crow bar DSCN7769 The local ladies showing up for the meeting
DSCN7770 Chad applying sun screen, somewhat to the disbelief of locals DSCN7773 an impromptu group photo in front of the meeting venue DSCN7774 A few men were there DSCN7776 but there were more women and old men
DSCN7777 old man and women DSCN7778 literacy is very high in both genders in Kyrgyzstan (thanks to the Soviets!) so the ladies were studying the handouts DSCN7779 while the next generation cavorted DSCN7782 They were very quiet!
DSCN7783 The ladies study on... DSCN7784 the ladies regroup DSCN7785 others had more important things to do, like run away! DSCN7788 Village setting
DSCN7789 We moved the meeting to the school house as there didn't seem to be electricity at the municipal meeting room. DSCN7790 We used a little theater with a typical Kyrgyz scene of mountains and horses as backdrop DSCN7792 I was very impressed by the project staff who adapted to the change in venue and charged forward. DSCN7795 Then they created break-out groups to discuss different topics
DSCN7799 and once again the ladies took over, in the case as scribes in Russian DSCN7800 The villagers pondering with a project staffer backing them up DSCN7801 faces of Central Asia DSCN7802 multiple generations offering their perspectives
DSCN7803 it was fun to see the "western" group process applied in a different setting DSCN7806 The ladies presented the results DSCN7808 Central Asia DSCN7809 Central Asia
DSCN7811 we then segued into a midday meal - another reason for good turn out? DSCN7812 mid day in the Kyrgyz Republic in the middle of Ramadan..not so pious here! DSCN7813 there was a table for the boys DSCN7814 who acted like boys as Chad conferred with project staff
DSCN7815 Central Asian sky with carved dolmen in a small park in the school yard DSCN7817 we then drove to the other side of Naryn town to visit some protected areas up river DSCN7818 landscape DSCN7819 It became greener as we gained elevation
DSCN7820 After an hour or so, we arrived here which seemed to indicate the direction to one of the protected areas DSCN7821 looking back along the road to the higher mountains DSCN7824 scattered around the landscape were these isolated necropoli DSCN7826 the road took us up over a ridge
DSCN7827 where we crossed paths with acquaintances of our driver DSCN7829 they had been over at the deer farm drinking kumis, fermented mare's milk, so we had to stop for a smoke DSCN7830 what we looked at DSCN7832 the road dropped down into the next drainage
DSCN7833 twisty road DSCN7834 with free range cow at the bottom DSCN7835 there was some kind of tourist concession established there DSCN7836 with yurts and a swing, which could be fun after a lot of kumis, I guess
DSCN7836 bis yurt and road DSCN7837 we interviewed the manager of the concession DSCN7839 who seemed to be doing well! DSCN7840 One could stay in the yurts
DSCN7841 which were quite attractive inside DSCN7843 here are the deer, elk really (red deer) grazing in their enclosure DSCN7844 the deer pen alongside the stream DSCN7845 how many species of free ranging animals can you see here?
DSCN7847 a second yurt encampment down valley DSCN7848 which was being freshened up DSCN7850 privy with a view DSCN7851 a velvety landscape
DSCN7852 we interviewed them too DSCN7853 more necropoli - I don't think that this is very orthodox Islam DSCN7854 tombs on the range 2013-07-24 08.51.19 Before leaving on the helicopter, we visited an art gallery(!)- I liked the composition
2013-07-24 08.58.14 Note the format of the horse: you will set in later in the Altai DSCN7855 We flew back to Bishkek and in the PM I would continue on to Moscow and then Barnaul in Altaisk Krai, Russia. This is the Naryn River near the helipad DSCN7856 the arch site DSCN7857 and then passage over the red mountain going north
DSCN7858 the valley to the west DSCN7859 rather densely settled, really DSCN7861 towns set amidst arid hills DSCN7862 that slowly green up with elevation and northern exposure
DSCN7863 quite clearly seen here DSCN7864 better pastures DSCN7865 and even some tree: one wonders if it is just climate that excludes trees on the rolling terrain DSCN7866 over one pass and into the next valley
DSCN7867 over the next pass DSCN7868 and into yet another valley DSCN7869 quite a bit broader a valley DSCN7870 with very interesting land surface patterns
DSCN7871 upturned strata DSCN7872 fractal erosional forms DSCN7873 note that we are really really high (for a helicopter) DSCN7875 we climbed to nearly 19'000 feet (unpressurized cabin) in order to fly in clear air over the mountain tops
DSCN7877 barns in mountain valley DSCN7879 field patterns as we approach Bishkek DSCN7880 the main artery of Kyrgyzstan DSCN7882 a bit like the Front Range, but bigger and closer
DSCN7884 Bishkek as an analogue to Denver DSCN7885 even a nice lake as we approached the airport DSCN7886 not much development around it as it is probably filled with drainage water